Day 4 began with rain again—saying goodbye to the ocean town of Amakusa and heading inland.
New stories waiting in the drizzle.
I’ve always wanted to visit the local antique market, but the timing never worked out. Finally, this time it did! Just one street, yet filled with so many fascinating things—layers of history tucked into every corner.
My hometown may be small, but each visit reveals something new. Treasures to dig through everywhere—it felt endless, in the best way. And I loved stumbling upon the little café space tucked inside.
After the market, I made a hopeful visit to the charming workshop of Mr. Iseri, the raccoon wooden top craftsman. Unfortunately, we missed each other—maybe a little mix-up in the schedule. It’s the first time that’s happened, but it’s all part of the journey. I did catch up with him over the phone later, and while I couldn’t fit in a visit this trip, we’ll meet again next time (and I’ll bring back more of his tops then!).
Next was Mr. Kuwahara, the elusive wooden toy craftsman whose work is almost impossible to find. I’d only ever seen the sumo wrestler toy by him behind glass at a local folk art museum, so I was thrilled when he made two for me this time. Just two... but that rarity makes them even more special!
Mr. Kuwahara also showed me a playful new Okinjyo Kokeshi doll—but someone had already claimed it. Next time, I’ll be quicker on the draw.
Wandering a short distance from his workshop, I came across one of the oldest ryokan in the area. The architecture, the faded signs, the stillness—it was all quietly beautiful.
Hinagu, in my hometown of Kumamoto, was once a popular onsen town, but it’s quieted down since the 1970s. Even so, its spirit lingers.
The day ended with a visit to everyone’s favorite bamboo basket craftsman, Mr. Fukusaki. Each year he creates something new, and this time he clearly had fun experimenting with dyeing bamboo skins—so many colorful baskets!
I couldn’t resist and brought a few home...!
He looked exhausted, though. When I asked why, he admitted he’d gone fishing at 5 a.m..! So instead of filming his process this time, I let him rest. Sometimes it’s more important to let the craftsman recharge.
Three visits in one day was plenty—for him and for me. I needed a break too.
Continued on Day 5…
